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Re-facet Rubies and Sapphires to fit ring.

A local jeweler/designer had a customer who wanted a very special ring made. The design would be a star patter which had a special meaning for them.

They wanted the star pattern to be composed of special shapes of stones. These shapes are not available in that pre-cut shape. They would need to be special cut.

The jeweler provided me with the measurement specs from his CAD program which gave us the lenght, width, and angles which I needed for the shape of the stones to fit the ring. I then calculated the sizes of stones I would need to re-cut into the sizes they needed. Then the jewelers contacts their sources.

Below, you will see photos and description of the cutting process.

Picture a ring with a star pattern made of Rubies and Sapphires.

Stones I began with

At the left you can see the marquise Rubies and Sapphires which the jeweler acquired from a gem dealer.

The are nice, clean, high quality stones. I have already dopped one of them to start working on it.

By working on stones which are calculated to be just large enough to cut the final size we need, the jeweler saves money by not purchasing gems which are larger than are needed.

A Ruby being faceted into a kite shape.

Faceting the new shape

Here you can see I am working on the pavilion of the stone.

Notice in the culet area, some of the polish of the original marquise stone is still visible. By the time we finish placing the culet facets, the facets from the previous stone will just disappear and you will no longer see them.

Picture a kite shaped Rubies. Picture a kite shaped Sapphire.

After re-cutting

Now you see one of each of the finished stones. The shape of the Sapphires is different from that of the Rubies.

I decided to use a cissors type cut on both the crown and the pavilion. That gives the stones more brilliance that the stones would have if they were simple step cuts. It takes a bit more time to do the cissors cut but it is worth it in brilliance.

The jeweler asked me to take the sharpness off of the points so as to prevent chipping.

Finished ring, top down view. Side view of the finished ring.

Finished ring

Here are 2 views of the finished ring.

The jeweler did a fantastic job!

→  Take me back to examples of Re-faceting Gems to Fit the Mounting


Denton Anderson,
Gemologist & Gem Cutter
click photo for Video

Photo of Denton the gem cutter.

Graduate Gemologist, GIA, GG
Over 20 years of experience.